03 January, 2007

Yoga Retreat
(26 December 2006- 1 January 2007)

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and anything else I may have missed in this most recent lapse in posting!

Disclaimer: I'm really sick and pretty out of it right now, so I hope this ends up being coherent. If not, you know why.

I just got back from our most recent excursion into the fabled world beyond UC College. From the 26th of December until the 1st of January, the volunteers, along with two of Kyle's friends from Washington, were in Idukki for yoga and meditation training. So after spending Christmas Eve and Day with Achen and his family, we got on a bus and headed for the mountains. As our most competent navigator, Kyle was in charge of the directions and sat right next to the driver, asking "Double Cutting?" at every stop. Eventually the driver said that we were about 4km from Double Cutting. About 45 minutes later, Kyle asked him again, "Double Cutting?" From the series of gestures the driver made, we gathered that he had blown right through Double Cutting 8km ago without bothering to tell us. So we got down at the next stop and had to catch a bus back to Double Cutting. From there we hired a jeep to take us to the yoga centre at the top of the mountain. The dirt road up the mountain dove and climbed and nearly bucked us out of the jeep several times. And there were times we were sure we would die. However, we eventually made it to Arsha Yoga Gurukulam.

Situated in a cleft of the Western Ghats between two higher peaks, Arsha Yoga Gurukulam commands a spectacular view of Idukki Lake and the Idukki wildlife sanctuary several hundred feet below. It was quiet, peaceful, and isolated-- the perfect place for a meditative getaway. A few years ago, Harilal, the founder and owner of the ashram, bought a small piece of land and gradually acquired more until he owned 7 acres. He built the road leading up to the ashram and arranged for running water and electricity, and he built the four mud-brick and thatch buildings that comprise the gurukulam-- his home, two huts for guests, and the yoga/meditation hall. He has begun some projects in organic farming on the land, and has plans to expand the facilities. But as far as I could gather, we were either his first or second group of paying guests. Harilal splits his year between Germany and India, and while he's in India, it sounds like he spends most of his time traveling to different places to teach, so he doesn't really spend much time at the gurukulam. His disciple, Sudarsh, however, spends significantly more time at the gurukulam. I was absolutely in love with this place and offered my services as resident caretaker for the duration of my time in Kerala. I don't think they thought I was being serious.

Arsha Yoga Gurukulam really was my ideal place, though. Like I said, it was quiet, peaceful, isolated, beautiful and surrounded by pristine nature. Life there is simple, disciplined, and contemplative. When we first walked to the top of the hill to take in the view, I plopped myself down on a large flat rock on the cliff with a huge stupid smile on my face and someone joked "This place was made for you." And I definitely felt more in my element than I have at any other point during my stay in India.

Our five days at Arsha Yoga were beautiful and passed much too quickly for my liking. The day started at 7 with Pranayama (breathing exercises) and meditation, followed by tea around 7:45. We would then practice yoga for about two hours and have brunch around 10. The food was simple and vegetarian, and very good. Everywhere we go, we develop a reputation as a group who loves to eat. A lot. Within twelve hours of our arrival, Harilal knew that any excess food could be unloaded onto my or Kyle's plate with only superficial protest. After brunch, we had the option to engage in Karma Yoga, or selfless service (read: being put to work around the ashram) for a couple of hours. So we helped to clear the road and clean the retaining wall leading up to Harilal's hut. We reconstructed a portion of the path leading up to the yoga hut, and moved a large lamp post to a more amenable spot. After our Karma Yoga was more tea, and then we were pretty much free for the afternoon.

One afternoon, we hiked down the mountain to the lake and swam for a while, had tea down there and hiked back up. Another day, Mike, Kyle, and I accompanied Harilal into the village to help him lead a yoga workshop for plus-two (high school senior) students. The other days, I used the afternoons to do some running on the brutal inclines up to the surrounding peaks.

At 4 we would reconvene for another two hours of asana practice, followed by dinner. And we would end the day with more meditation and a teaching by Harilal on Ashtanga (the eight limbs of yoga).

After the yoga retreat, our descent to Kumily (a huuuuge European tourist destination) for New Year's Eve, and my return to Aluva have been disruptive and pretty depressing. But that's the trouble with living a secluded life of contemplation, I guess. You eventually have to return to the Real World. I hope, though, that my experiences of the past week have taught me to keep the peace and balance of mind gained through yoga and meditation practice even in the midst of the hustle and bustle of daily life.

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